Suruga

Lift the noodles from the bottom of the bowl and the aroma of the soy-based sauce rises with the steam. At Suruga in Kanda-Surugadai, abura soba centres on springy, medium-thick to thick noodles that are thoroughly coated in sauce. Tossed in advance with toppings including chashu pork, menma, spring onion and naruto fish cake, the noodles are not overly greasy. Each bite brings out the wheat's firm texture and the sauce's savoury depth.

Alongside the classic abura soba, Suruga Black stands out with a punch of pork back fat, garlic and black pepper. It suits a craving for noodles with a bolder saltiness and the sweetness of fat. Adding a raw egg or rice is a natural way to take in the rich flavours.

There are plenty of ways to change up the bowl as you eat. The counter is stocked with dried-sardine vinegar, chilli oil, mayonnaise, fried onion and garlic soy sauce. A splash of the vinegar later in the meal adds a fish-rich note and sharpens the finish. Garlic curry sauce, available on request, or crisp fried onion can transform the noodles into a spicier, more indulgent dish.

For a more substantial meal, consider a set with rice topped with chopped spring onion and pork back fat. The space is compact and narrow, just a short walk from Ochanomizu Station, but Suruga makes a satisfying choice for a quick lunch or a filling meal after work.